Recently, a friend asked me for my skincare routine because “your skin looks so good”. I feel like two kids and a pandemic sucked the life out of me, but I’ll take a compliment!
Since I’m going to write out my routine for her, I might as well share it with you all.
Please do not take my recommendations as medical advice, and keep in mind that everyone’s skin type, budget, lifestyle, etc. differ and what works for me may not work for others.
My skin type
My skin is combination leaning towards dry in the winter, and I occasionally develop pimples in my T zone when stressed, sleep deprived and/or eating poorly. I have a dusting of sunspots on my cheeks from ignoring my mother’s exhortations to apply sunscreen and wear hats in my 20s (You were right, mom), crow’s feet around the eyes, some bumps on my forehead and above my lips, likely from clogged pores.
My skincare routine
I’ve followed these steps for the last 8 years or so, sometimes omitting or adding a step.
Evening
Wash my face with a foaming or oil cleanser to remove makeup
Use a cotton pad soaked with micellar water to remove remaining traces of makeup
Lightly pat toner all over face and neck
Eye cream
Layer 1-2 serums/treatments
Apply moisturizer in summer and cream in winter, with an optional face oil on top to seal in moisture in winter
Morning
Wash my face with an exfoliating cleanser or use a cotton pad soaked with micellar water
Lightly pat toner all over face and neck
Eye cream
Layer 1-2 serums/treatments
Apply moisturizer in summer and cream in winter
Apply sunscreen (re-applying every 2-3 hours throughout the day)
My personal code of conduct for skincare
No matter how tired I am at night, I never forget to wash my face/remove my makeup. I think this basic rule has done wonders for my skin because it prevents my pores from clogging.
Every morning, I put on sunscreen and re-apply regularly throughout the day, in both summer and winter (yes, even if you can’t see/feel the sun, there are still UVA/UVB rays).
Expensive is not necessarily better, as many dermatologists and skincare gurus will tell you. However, I haven’t used La Prairie, La Mer, or any of luxe skincare brands in that price range so I cannot speak to their efficacy. I use a lot of Korean skincare products and they are better quality for the price relative to American products.
I tried double cleansing (oil based cleanser followed by foaming or cream cleanser) for awhile and it didn’t make a difference. My dermatologist says that she doesn’t really recommend this trend, as it can strip away oils from your skin unnecessarily. Instead, I use a cleanser and then remove remaining traces of makeup with micellar water.
My favorite products
You can find all my favorite products on my Shop My list (I may receive a commission on links).
Cleanser
Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm: Tried a lot of cleansing balms and oils. I like this one for its lack of fragrance and effectiveness, and price point.
Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant: The bottle says you can use it every day but my dermatologist said that it’s best to use every 2-3 days (mornings). You can over-exfoliate if you use it daily. It’s great for when I have a breakout and to minimize the sebaceous gland bumps on my forehead.
Omorovicza Cleansing Foam: Yeah I know it’s expensive but it is hands down the best foaming facial cleanser I have ever used. It gets all the makeup off and smells pleasant. My trick to get it at a good price is to buy the travel-size samples from eBay. I always keep one in my travel toiletry bag.
Makeup remover
Bioderma Sensibio Micellar Water: The OG for a reason. I always keep it on hand at home to remove excess makeup even after washing my face. No scent, effective, and yes it’s more expensive than drugstore brands, but those tend to have a more unpleasant smell, IMHO.
Toner
COSRX Advanced Snail Mucin Power Essence: I tried SK-II for a couple years and it was fine, but I didn’t notice a significant difference. I use essences as a step after cleansing and before serums in order to prep the skin, which feels dry after cleansing. Any essence that promises magic is kind of bullshit. It’s just an intermediary step! However, I do have friends who swear by SK-II pitera essence, so if you want to pony up the $$, feel free to try. This one does the job at a fraction of the price and is legendary.
May Coop Raw Sauce: This is a more expensive option than above but still cheaper than SK-II. It’s thicker, but not tacky, and I love how it makes my skin feel. I should probably just switch over to it after I run out of COSRX. I always keep a travel size bottle in my travel toiletry bag.
Serum/treatments
Sunday Riley Good Genes: I’ve been using this lactic acid treatment for almost 4 years and the combination of Good Genes and Skinceuticals C E Ferulic has lightened spots on my face (the rest will only come off with laser treatment). TBH, I think it’s been just as effective as the Skinceuticals Retinol 0.3. My skin is not particularly sensitive so I didn’t have any reactions to it, but if you have sensitive skin, ask a doctor before you begin, or ease into it like you would with retinol.
Skinceuticals C E Ferulic: The OG vitamin C serum and for good reason. It’s medical grade, the colored glass bottle keeps the vitamin C stable (it’s no good if exposed to sunlight), and if you can afford it, just use this one. I’ve had friends see results with less expensive vitamin C serums, but those tend to be people who have also just started out on a regular skincare routine. I’ve been on a regular routine for years, so only more potent products have an effect on me. I must have this every day and even when I travel. Skinstore and Dermstore sometimes have “secret” 15% off codes, which is always “SKINC15”.
Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Serum: This is a case of, it’s “expensive but it works”. I always buy mine at duty free when transiting through Asia, and Incheon Airport in Seoul often has promos (I got buy 1 get 1 half off earlier this year). I wouldn’t buy it at US prices, but if you can get it at Asian prices, I think it’s a really lovely serum to layer. It’s brightening, super pleasant and light scent, and one bottle lasts 4 months!
Starface Micro-Cloud Patches: These are seriously intense pimple patches but also incredibly effective. They are not the invisible kind, as they are literally cloud shaped and blue, but sleep with them on and the pimple will be vastly reduced the next day!
Eminence Strawberry Rhubarb Hyaluronic Serum: My previous aesthetician recommended this to me when I had inflamed my face with inappropriate usage of retinol (lol, never start retinol without the supervision of a derm or licensed aesthetician), and it was excellent for hydration and soothing, especially for sensitive faces. The price point is pretty reasonable compared to other fancier brands too.
Eye cream
Shiseido Benefiance Eye Cream: An oldie but goodie. I’ve cycled through so many fancily-packaged and marketed eye creams, but this one does what it’s supposed to - moisturizes and brightens. No hidden tricks. Shiseido has sales during Black Friday and major holidays so look out for discounts then.
Moisturizer/cream
Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore: My favorite face cream for fall/winter. It’s thick, moisturizing, unscented, and not oily and it doesn’t clog your pores. You can probably find something good for less, but I like this one after trying so many creams cheap and expensive, so I’m sticking with it.
Embryolisse Lait-Creme Concentre: Hello most versatile moisturizer of all time. Think of it as a better and less greasy version of the Pond’s cold cream that previous generations used. You can use it as a moisturizer for oily skin year round, for normal skin in the summer, or as a makeup remover. It really is great and I’ve been using it for almost two decades.
La Roche Posay Cicaplast Balm B5: I started using this last fall in conjunction with the Eminence serum after my retinol disaster and it calmed my skin within a day. I now always keep a tube at home, in case I have rashes, irritated skin, or just a dry face that needs an extra dose of care. Perfect if you have sensitive or dry skin.
Lip
Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask: The OG lip mask but I keep coming back to the grapefruit flavor after trying other flavors and other lip masks. I swipe some on before bed and in the morning before heading out. Haven’t had chapped lips since, and I don’t even need to use lip balm as much during the day.
Sunscreen
Beauty of Joseon Sun Relief SPF 50: How many ways do I love thee? My favorite Korean SPF for fall/winter and for dry skin. It does have a slightly dewy finish, but absolutely no white cast (like all Korean sunscreens). And yes it’s a chemical sunscreen (like most Korean and good sunscreens), but don’t believe that mineral sunscreen marketing crap. The US FDA is antiquated in its approval of sunscreen filters (and many other skincare ingredients) whereas Europe and Asia FDA-equivalents are both more stringent and also allow better quality SPF filters to be used. Which means that Korean and European sunscreens are superior in every way and better for your skin. The whole chemical vs mineral sunscreen debate is just bullshit.
Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Sun Cream SPF 50: The Korean sunscreen beloved by Koreans. This is what they are using, and it’s great! I still like my Beauty of Joseon for cold weather, but this is a good one for oily skin and/or summer.
Purito Daily Soft Touch Sunscreen: The OG that started American skinfluencers’ obsession with Korean sunscreen. They recently reformulated, and I haven’t tried the new formulation, but have read that it’s still awesome. I put it in the same category as Round Lab - good for oily skins and in spring/summer.
Treatments
Natura Bisse Stabilizing Cleansing Mask: Gets gunk out from your pores and tightens your skin! I would avoid if you have dry skin though - better for oily and combo skins.
Arcona Cranberry Gommage Purifying Exfoliator: I love this exfoliator and it works. I use it 2-3x a week on my forehead and above my lips, where I have more textural irregularity and it keeps my skin smooth. If you’re also using an exfoliating face wash like the Dermalogica one, avoid using both products on the same day.
Dr Jart+ Ceramidin Skin Barrier Moisturizing Face Mask: Tried lots of Korean face masks, which all seem the same to me. This one is the most moisturizing and yes it’s expensive in the US so get it from Asian airports if you can! It’s a lot cheaper!
Ok that’s a wrap! Up next is a list of my favorite makeup products!